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Jeff, one of my fellow travelers, has also started a blog: Indiapilgrimage2010.wordpress.com If you like lots of details accurately and professionally reported, this is for you! Mine will be far simpler and through my eyes.
4th entry - Janice in India, 2010 (July 29, 2010)
Well, here we are at the end of our trip. Tomorrow (July 30) we head for the airport and begin the long journey home. My optimistic intentions at the beginning of the trip to write detailed accounts were quickly thwarted, mainly by technical challenges but also by my personal choice to not be always "doing". Instead, I'm trying out a "being" chapter of my life.
MANALI
After my third account we had traveled to beautiful Manali, site of many Indian movies and honeymoons. It is lush and relatively cool with a river perfect for white water rafting. Originally the plan was to stay just one night but here is what happened:
We woke early and met in front of the hotel at 3:30 AM to get an early start on the precarious road to Leh. After nearly two hours of winding, bumpy roads we arrived at a plateau housing a tea village where we stopped for "T and P". After stopping for a breakfast of curd & paroatha & use of bathrooms (hole with porcelain foot markers in dark, stinky shack), we headed up the mountain. Very soon it became ominously clear that there was a major problem because hundreds of fuel & goods trucks and cars were pulled over at the sides of the road. The bad news was shared that a large truck had become mired in the mud and then later an avalanche had plowed into the truck, blocking the road completely. We then began a rather excruciating 8 hour wait as varying reports came about when the road might open. Jeff and James had hiked up to watch the army come to decide whether or not to topple the truck over the edge and at one point were chased with night sticks! Half way through our wait Linda collapsed and we became very worried about what would happen if we continued to wait. She had suffered quite a bit from altitude sickness on a previous trip and the noxious fumes from many idling trucks plus the combined urine and feces - some people had been waiting five days! - made the area increasingly disgusting. Finally Lobsang decided that we needed to retreat back to Manali. It was a good call because we found out later that the road remained blocked all through the night.
Exhausted and dirty but delighted that we could still have a room in the same, nice hotel, we all went out for an excellent dinner. Lopsang declared that we would stay two nights to recover and we were fine with that.
**I haven't' taken the time to discuss this but I must now say that as a group, you couldn't ask for a nicer, more flexible and cooperative assortment of individuals as the one we made up. Not one "sour apple" or "bad egg"! Each and everyone of us was easily able to flex and flow selflessly as needed.
The next morning we met after an elaborate breakfast to talk about our course of action and we were met with a surprise: Our two Danish ladies, Annette and Stephanie announced that they had felt the urge to end their trip and go home. Linda had made up her mind that she absolutely did not intend to proceed to Leh but none of us liked the idea of leaving one behind alone. After a lot of discussion, Susan decided that she would stay behind with Linda until a driver could be found to take them both back to Dharamsala where they would stay until it was time to meet with us July 22nd.
Since we had some spare time in Manali, my roommate Cinzia and I decided to have some custom Punjabi suits made up - you know. the sort of long tunics over silky trousers? The streets were lined with a mind-boggling array of shops a-glitter with fantastic embroidered and spangled samples of sumptuous finery. One could choose the fabric for $8-$30 and the labor to fabricate the custom outfit was a mere $3 and could be done in two hours. We were served tea while we selected fabric and then were subjected to the most thorough measuring of our lives! It became quite clear that certain liberties were being taken so we brought the session to a quick finish and rushed off. We promised each other that we would come back together to collect the finished garments and it was a good thing!
THE ROAD TO LEH
The morning of our second attempt we again readied ourselves for a 3:30 am meeting in the parking lot. With four less in the group we had a lot more room to spread out in the cars and started up again. As we neared the avalanche area there were some tense moments as once again we saw trucks pulled over and waiting. What happened next was the first in a day chock full of terrifying experiences. While the avalanche had been cleared, the area was still highly unstable and the mud on the road was extremely thick. I was in the middle of our three cars and watched horrified as car #1 first got stuck and then a rain of rocks and boulders cascaded down. We couldn't see if the car had been struck but watched the driver get out to trade places with the older more experienced driver and he succeeded in getting the car unstuck and out. Then it was our turn. Our driver (Rin-ku) let out a shout, shook his raised fist and surged forward. Several heart stopping times we skidded out of control - once nearly colliding with a parked truck and once terribly close to the cliff edge and then we were through to the other side. All of us - Bejay, Jeff, Lynn and I had been shouting "go-go-go" and willing with all our might our continued progress and when we were safely over we all felt Rin-ku was a hero and the mightiest driver we had ever encountered. The third car made it through too without getting stuck but we learned a boulder had struck car #1, completely destroying the bumper. It had been a close call!
That whole day we drove through the most spectacular scenery surrounded by the majestic Himalayas. Many times the car forded places where rushing water covered the road at depths which seemed impossible for the car to deal with. The vehicles were Toyota vans and did not have 4-wheel drive! At least twice the rushing water tumbled over great voids into which our vehicle would be swept if we lost our grip. Originally the plan was to camp in a yurt in Keylong but we pushed through to Darcha where we stopped for the night. By now most of the group was suffering to some degree or other from the altitude even though we had been vigilantly popping homeopathic pills - nux vomica alternating with cocculus indicus while forcing water. Only Carol, Lobsang, Soo kyong, Cinzia and myself were well enough to walk around although we felt head-achy and dizzy. The rest were either barfing behind the yurts or crashed inside immediately. Bejay was obviously not well at all and we were quite worried about her lungs.
The main group was settled into a round yurt which is a tent-like structure. The floor is concrete or stone and a wide ledge runs around the circumference. This ledge is made of stacked stone, made fairly flat, and covered with a heavy quilt-like pad and serves as a large on-going bed which one shares with all neighbors, known or unknown. To one side is a sectioned off area for cooking, the propane smell of which is the predominant odor. Cinzia, Teri, Meredith and I had been drinking tea in one of these yurts when one of the drivers had a brief argument with the woman and told us we needed to move. He directed us to a much larger, rectangular structure saying it was better for us. This did not turn out to be true! After situating ourselves as far away from the entrance as possible and laying out our sleeping bags we settled in. It was clear that the toilet situation was going to be extremely challenging - we had been forcing water and tea but there were none! We were dizzy and nauseous but we were told we had to go way out in back, across mud and rock-strewn area and bare ourselves to public and elements alike. God help anyone blighted with diarrhea! We went in groups for mutual support and tried to make light of how quickly we had developed a high level of intimacy. Back in the yurt the temperature started plummeting. We were in our sleeping bags with two layers of clothes, shawls we had purchased, hats on and we were still cold. Shortly after our arrival a parade of motorcyclists, military personnel and other travelers came and went - some just for food and some for the night. Most of us were too queasy for food - I just couldn't even think of mixing the nasty Tibetan altitude medicine and swallowing it. We were close to the back of the tent where the cooking was happening on the right and a partitioned area to the left held a wood stove and "social" area. The whole tent was shrill with blaring music, crashing pots and pans and loud talk and laughter. I correctly gathered that we were not in for much sleep! Around 10 PM the yurt owner started lowering the lights and went around throwing the heavy padded quilts over each of us. I jammed earplugs in and put on my eye mask and began the fruitless task of trying to find a comfortable way to lie on the padded stone ledge. The space to my right was empty and I must have dozed off because somewhere in the middle of the night I discovered a human shaped lump next to me. Very early the tent came alive with a blare of music and I became aware that not only was my bladder bursting, but my head felt like someone had been trying to open my brain pan with a blunt instrument. I had NEVER had such a terrible headache! As my fellow travelers began to awaken I learned that we were all suffering and doubted we could eat a thing. After a while I gathered my courage and mixed up my bitter Tibetan stuff and gagged it down. Wonder of wonders - it worked and I was feeling almost as good as new in about five minutes.
We tried to get away as early as we could for the second leg of the long drive. Bejay was actually worse and to everyone's alarm showing early signs of pulmonary edema. This second day I can only describe as seemingly unending and horrendous. The beautiful greenery and rivers had been replaced by vast expanses of brown and rock. The road was so unbelievably bumpy that after four hours in the back I expected a kidney to pop. I have made a vow that if I ever again go to Ladakh it will not be by road. Bejay was incoherent and obviously suffering and Lynn and I alternately stroked her head and massaged her back when she was conscious. The landscaped did wondrous things - eroded spires and exposed strata, but I was ready for it to be over. Frequently we passed miserable looking work crews of poor men and women toiling in the choking dust in a never-ending attempt to keep the road usable. Every once in a while there were roadside camps where these poor people lived - all brown and surrounded by more dust and brown. A sadder life would be hard to imagine.
At last we crested the last summit and started the final descent. Bejay seemed to already be improving to our relief. As we entered Leh, the greenery was so soothing and we were all impressed by how clean the streets looked. And there were stupa's everywhere! We had entered the land of Stupa's!
7/10/2010
These “reports” are few and far between because I have to choose between great company in the café’s, browsing the markets, circumambulating the temple, resting (ha!) or plodding on my own to an internet café where the keyboard and speed is questionable. To my great fortune, Sonam our guest house manager, allowed me to use his computer tonight. I got lost on the stair route back from the temple, was confronted by an angry monkey and arrived too hot and bothered to want to go back down the hill again.
After a tremendous about of debate, questions & research we have chosen our path for tomorrow. Throughout the week there was news of escalating violence on the route we had chosen which would lead us through Kasmir and Shrinigar. Thursday we heard rocks were being thrown through car windows and there were riots and the army had closed the road. Just when we became comfortable with the plan to go the alternate route which would take us through beautiful Manali and north to Leh, we learned that huge landslides had taken out the road completely. After multiple discussions, by yesterday we were considering either flying from Jammu to Ladakh or just remaining in Dharamsala since both roads were dangerous. Each option brought concerns and we agreed to sleep on it. This morning we left for our appointment with the Karmapa without Lobsang so he could research the current road conditions, etc. The final decision has been made and we leave tomorrow at 5 AM for Ladakh by route of Manila. First we will visit the caves at Tso Pema where we will spend the night. We may well be staying in a houseboat and/or tents on the way to Leh!
The lead up to the audience today with the Karmapa was almost as impressive as that with the Dalai Lama. He is a young man of about 27 and we all agree he glows with a radiant look about him. What was really nice was the fact that we were not only served tea during the long wait but we also got a nice period of time to sit with him and ask him any questions we desired answers to. (questions and answers to follow at a later date). As we were leaving we were each handed an envelope. Inside were two packets containing tiny seed-like pills. One packet explained that taking the pills would “lead one to liberation”. Not sure when/where & how to take them yet.
Afterwards we visited a gorgeous garden/temple where we got to tour the thanka painting room (intricate paintings which serve as portable alters) and then we visiting a nunnery where we were treated to a beautifully made video depicting a typical day in the life of a nun.
Gotta go soon – there are many, many sights and experiences I’m not taking the time now to narrate. Oh – I do have to quickly talk about the visit yesterday to the TCV (Tibetan Children’s Village). Our two Danish ladies (Annette and Stephanie) had the foresight to bring a box of coloring books and crayons and were they a hit! Five of us women spent about an hour sprawled on the floor with lovely little boys and girls (age 2 ½ - 4 approx). They were enthralled and I’ve NEVER seen children color with such perfection and attention to detail. These children have escaped directly from Tibet and survived the journey into India. Many lost both parents or were surrendered by parents unable to care for them. Once injuries and illnesses were resolved, they have become a part of these wonderful, clean & loving “family” communities. In all the years I’ve spent working in California elementary schools I’ve never seen such clean, well-mannered children.
Upon completing this entry I must rush to change some dollars before our early start in the morning. At 7:30 PM I have a “date” with a Tibetan family in the room I share with Cinzia. Several others in our group have met with their “adopted” families that they have been helping over the years and I have decided that after having five boys of my own, it’s time to have a girl! She comes with a baby sister too! It really is amazing what even $20 a month can do and I love that this is done “grass roots” style and not through some large organization where the money is swallowed up in administration.
Namaste!
Janice
PS – Cinzia says “hi!” to Jan & Neo
July 7, 3010
I’ll try not to use the word ‘amazing” too much but that’s how this trip is going. This is our third day in Dharamsala and what a place it is! I heard that Richard Gere bought some garbage trucks so I think things have improved in that area. Nevertheless, there’s plenty of rubbish around.
I’ve resorted to an internet café as the laptop just didn’t want to cooperate. Getting here has been constantly challenged because one has to pass hundreds of fasinating little shops and stalls selling everything you can imagine for cheap, cheap.
Since so much has happened I’ll start with now and work backwards until I run out of time. Just a few short hours ago I was holding hands the HH the Dalai Lama! No kidding – I’ll have the photo to prove it. Lopsang was able to arrange an appointment with our group – not an easy thing to do! Often one only gets a very brief handshake but this is what happened; After going through many security checks and standing in drenching rain outside the temple, we waited with our gift, our silk scarf and the items we wanted HH to bless in a pleasant sitting room and waited and waited. Lobsang had been assisted into black monks robes and looks very distinguished. He had been rehearsing the fourteen of us (2 from Denmark, 2 from Santa Fe, 1 from El Paso, 1 from Reno and 8 from Chico) on the correct protocol. Suddenly he received a signal that it was our turn and we were being ushered between flanks of security guards and there was his holiness. He took Lobsang by the right hand and me by the left hand and welcomed us. Then he let go of Lobsang’s hand to shake hands with everyone else and continued to hold my hand throughout the whole visit! We sang him happy birthday (off key) and he just beamed. Then we all posed for several photo’s (still holding my hand). I’ve decided that I’m going to buy a michael jackson type glove to wear permanently on my right had. Guess I’ll have to give up clay L
We are staying in a Tibetan guest house called Pema Thang. It’s at the top of a rather steep hill but it’s very comfortable and clean. Every once in a while you’ll see a monkey perched on the balcony railing and because we are so high up, the eagles soar very close. I’m living like a queen – a little Tibetan lady gave me a wonderful massage (1 hour) for about $11. We’ve been eating great food – Tibetan momo’s, Indian curry and probably the best pizza I’ve ever had – even compared to Celesino’s. Today I had whale pizza (?) which had chopped walnuts and hot chili’s on a delicious crispy crust.
This morning we were supposed to visit a very famous oracle and we had all worked hard to come up with an appropriate question which Lobsang reviewed and translated into Tibetan. We left the guest house at 7 AM and wound our way down the steep, muddy path in torrential rain. Down steps and passages we went until Lobsang stopped at an unmarked door. After a few moments the door cracked open and we learned that the oracle was not well and would reschedule in two days. Lopsang had his pockets loaded down with milk cartons because when the oracle is in trance she drinks lots of milk!
Yesterday – His Holiness’ birthday celebration - would take hours to tell you about. Lobsang’s nephew, Tenzing, guided me to a special incense burning ceremony first thing. No one else wanted to go because they wanted to try to get early seats but it was said to be fascinating and it was. I really did feel like I was in a Nat’l Geo film. Winding around the temple outskirts past hundreds of spinning prayer wheels we came to an outdoor arena where a long line up of monks were swaying and chanting while blowing on those long horns, beating drums and clashing cymbals. Giant onion top alters billowed clouds of incense and everywhere Tibetan people were seated chanting. We had left too early to have breakfast so when I saw a monk pouring out cups of milky tea I asked Tenzing if I could have a cup. I was expecting the delicious chai but was surprised to find I had my first cut of yak butter tea! Everyone in the group who had tasted it before had said it was terrible but I didn’t think it was so bad. Very salty and buttery. I just had a little because I was afraid it wouldn’t sit well in my stomach in the hours to come. I was very fascinated to watch the groups of scarlet clad “monk-lets” – boys of around 7 years- sit patiently for so long chanting with the others. At the end of the ceremony a basket containing ashes of incense and tsampa was passed around and everyone took a handful and formed into lines. To more chanting we hefted the ashes once, twice and then the third time it all went into the air and down onto our heads.
Next we had to scurry quickly to the temple entrance to see the birthday celebration. Words cannot express the press of humanity as literally thousands of people were trying to push their way in. It was raining so hard and most had umbrellas but so much water was cascading off the umbrella points onto the surrounding heads the effect was useless. Umbrellas on top crushed those underneath and it’s a wonder many eyes were not poked out. We were far too late to even glimpse HH and I was considering leaving when Tenzing suggested we push ourselves in a new direction. We found that the entrance walkway had been filled with school age youth and at first we were told we could not stay there. Within moments more people had joined us and the guards gave up and we found about six square inches to sit down on. The walkway was covered by a tent but I soon discovered I was directly under the vent hole. Rain poured down on me while those around me stayed relatively dry. But guess what? I was sitting directly in front of HH just fifty yards away with one of the best possible views. I had brought a cheap plastic poncho which came handy to sit on so my butt was actually dry. HH gave a very short speech and some delightful performances followed. When it was nearly over the scariest thing happened: Monks were attempting to pass out morsels of sweet cake and the crowd in our area (now standing) started surging forward and back. Mass balance was suspended by a hair several times and I kept looking fearfully at several women holding babies in case things got out of hand. So many bodies were pressing hard from all sides it was hard to breathe. Then Tenzing shouted that we needed to make our way to the side to avoid the press as way was cleared for an exit. I shouted “you’ve got to be kidding?” Eel like I wriggled an inch at a time, sometimes wedging a hip, knee or other body part into a “loose” place between bodies so I could slide to the side. I reminded myself of that liquid silver guy on the Terminator movies). Finally we were against the rail and the crowd surged so hard I thought my ribs would break. When we were finally out and back at the guest house it was only about 1:30 but it felt like it was at least 5 PM and I was exhausted but still exhilarated by the whole experience. Strangely I never felt claustrophobic during the whole event but instead felt a strong sense of one-ness with all those people who held their spiritual leader with such reverence. While standing listening to all those voices singing their national anthem during the ceremony I felt great emotion sweep over me and my tears mingled with the rain on my face.
We’ll see if time permits me going back to describe the perilous 6 hour drive from Amritsar to Dharamsala (our taxi’s didn’t hesitate to pass continually on the narrow blind corners as we ascended) and the adventure at the Golden Temple where we shared dhal, chapatti’s and rice pudding with thousands in the sweltering heat. Lopsang stopped a turbaned holy man and asked him to bless us and he very seriously complied and passed out blessings in the form of a strange, large hard grape-like thing. We were all very entertained by the scores of requests from Indian families to pose with us while they photographed us with various family members. Parents ushered their small children up to us to shake our hand and proudly test their English with a “hello, how are you?”.
More to come…..
Janice
6/27/10 Wednesday (June 30th) I'm heading to India! I'll be spending three weeks in Northern India (Delhi, Amritsar, Dharamsala, Leh) and then will travel to Nepal for the fourth week. Lopsang Samten (he has created Kalachakra sand mandalas at both Butte College and CSU, Chico) will be our guide and I am traveling with eight other Chicoans. We will visit His Holiness, the Dalai Lama's residence, orphanages, temples, lamasaries and other wonderous places.
6/28/10 Why am I going? I will be embarking on a pilgrimage of both an artistic and a spiritual nature. I will be re-visiting a country I fell in love with over 30 years ago. We will also be bringing some much needed medical supplies & children's books.
I'm technically challenged so please bear with me for the next month. It is my intention to update & send photo's regularly. Namaste!
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